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Travel UK

Beer, water and Devon delights

A COUPLE of days away on Devon’s south coast seemed the ideal punctuation mark separating summer from autumn – except, of course, the weather had other ideas.

Despite this having been a year marked by drought, heavy rain has become the recent hallmark of my travels and my brief stay in the lovely coastal village of Beer was no exception.

Beer has many claims to fame, including a mention in the Domesday Book and a long and colourful history as a smugglers’ haunt. It faces Lyme Bay on the Jurassic Coast World Heritage Site, and its picturesque cliffs form part of the South West Coast path.

Beer grew up around a smugglers’ cove and caves once used to store contraband goods. Nowadays fishing boats are winched up the steep shingle beach as there is no harbour; fresh fish is sold nearby.

The locals’ pride in their village is immediately clear. Even with the holiday season drawing to a close, everything was smart and seemed well cared for.

The local caves are the result of quarrying and Beer stone was used in the construction of no fewer than 24 cathedrals, including Exeter, St Paul’s and Westminster Abbey.

Regardless of the prevailing weather, I found Beer a charming destination and brief (damp) excursions into nearby Seaton and Sidmouth added to my enjoyment.

A brook winds its way in an open conduit alongside Beer’s main road down to the sea.

A stormy sea at Sidmouth, a popular tourist resort sometimes described as the gateway to the Jurassic Coast. Much of the Regency town has been designated a conservation area.

Sidmouth seafront in the rain.

The small seaside resort of Seaton is only a couple of miles along the coast from Beer.
 

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